Current Location: Memphis TN
Mileage: approx. 200
States traveled: TN
Today started out like many other days – eat breakfast (Waffle House today), gas up, drive for an insanely long time. Things picked up quite a bit when we got into Memphis, tho. Our first stop was Sun Studio, essentially the birthplace of rock & roll, and the place that launched Elvis, Johnny Cash & many others. The tour was quite informative, and managed to fill in some missing pieces of the Sun story from what Darren and I learned at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame on Monday. Between the Rock Hall, Sun, and the “Elvis in the Army” exhibit at the Patton Museum, I think I’ve probably learned damn near everything about Elvis’ early days – and presumably a trip to Graceland tomorrow will fill in the gaps. Incidentally, it’s really refreshing to see a tour guide who genuinely enjoys his work.
After the tour at Sun, the combination of long hours behind the wheel, bizarre sleep patterns, and the sudden heat (it got to about 90 degrees in Memphis today – bear in mind it was 30 degrees in Cleveland on Monday), and my energy was tapped…but we pressed on. We walked up and down Beale Street and the Prospect Place shopping area, tried to get onto Mud Lake Island (operative word: TRIED – the park was closed, despite the fact that we got there an hour before the ‘scheduled’ closing). Finally, dinner time rolled around – I never thought I’d see the day when my dinner choices are between BB King and Isaac Hayes, but there you are. We opted for BB King’s Blues Club, and I think we made the right choice, because not only did we have a great dinner (and some LOVELY booze), but we also got to see two sets with the Queen of Beale Street, Ruby Wilson, and the BB King All-Star house band. At the beginning of her first set, Ruby told the audience that she was there to “destressify” us – and she certainly did that. I’m going to have to see if I can dig up some of her albums.
Over on Eh…, Darren professes his love for Memphis in general, and I second those opinions. But Beale Street in particular really struck me. I’m not a club guy. Or a dance-hall guy. Or even a fun guy. Generally, when someone talks about going to a bar or club, the image I get is something like what I remember from the bars at college – dirty, crowded, smoke-filled places that were packed so tight you couldn’t stand up without bumping into someone or having beer spilled on you. But in Memphis…I don’t know if it’s the more laid-back attitude, or what…but in Memphis, the club scene really appealed to me. Every club and bar on Beale Street had this fantastic music wafting out the front doors. The people milling about from club to club weren’t rowdy, or rude – just having fun with friends. I could never imagine myself LIVING in Memphis, but if I ever had reason to go back, you’d find me on Beale Street every night.